How To

What’s wrong with my SUV’s oil gauge?

John Paul, AAA Northeast's Car Doctor, answers a question from a reader with concerns about a high oil pressure reading on their vehicle.

The Car Doctor answers a question from a reader with concerns about a high oil pressure reading on their vehicle. AP Photo/General Motors Co., File

By John Paul

July 22, 2025

4 minutes to read

Q. I have a problem with the oil gauge needle on my 2006 Chevrolet Trailblazer. The issue is it goes all the way up to the top of the gauge when it is hot out. Could it be a bad sensor? The car had an oil leak, which was fixed, and it needed a new filter. Now that is fixed, no more leak but now this oil pressure issue. I understand my vehicle is older. I am trying to fix what I have, instead of buying a new vehicle. Any advice would be helpful.

A. The issue absolutely could be a bad sensor, but it could also be a bad oil filter. I have seen some faulty spin-on oil filters, that for whatever reason push oil pressure up. The proper thing to do is check the actual oil pressure with a mechanical gauge and see if it is really high. But if I were guessing rather than diagnosing, I would get a GM filter and see if the oil pressure reading changes. By the way, there is nothing wrong with maintaining and holding on to the car you have.

Q. I was thinking about replacing my 2011 Toyota RAV4 which I purchased new. I stopped by a Toyota dealer and spoke to a salesman who said the new 2026 RAV4s are called Plug-In Hybrids. I said to him that hybrids are designed to use the gas motor to charge the battery, and asked him why it now has to be plugged in. He said it’s just an added feature. I was wondering if you had a chance to road test the 2026 RAV4 and give me your opinion of them, and also clear up the reason for the plug-in.

A. I have not had the opportunity to evaluate the 2026 models. In 2025 there was a RAV4, RAV4 hybrid and a Plug-in version (PHEV). The plug-in version can operate as a full electric for 45 miles and then reverts to a typical hybrid. Yes, both the hybrid and PHEV charge the battery with the gas engine. With the PHEV, the much larger battery needs to be plugged in to fully charge the battery to take advantage of the full electric capabilities.

Q. I just wanted to say you were correct in the diagnosing of my old Mazda that would periodically not start. The local dealer did not find anything other than to say it may be the alarm system. They removed the system, and I had the same issues. The car would start if I got out of the car, opened the hood, closed the hood, and then tried to start the car. You suggested double checking the wiring for corrosion issues and also suspected a faulty starter. You thought the opening and closing of the hood and doors may have been enough to get the starter to work. A local independent shop had the car for a day and it did not start. They tapped the starter with a hammer, and it started up. They replaced the starter and now there are no problems.

A. Thanks. Sometimes you just need to sit and think about what is going on. Glad it worked out. I would also talk with the dealer about some at least partial refund for removing the alarm, since that did not solve the problem.

Q. My 2015 Chevy pickup truck has been a perfect truck for 10 years. The last time it went in for tires and an oil change I was told it was going to need ball joints. Is this reasonable for a 10-year-old truck and what would be an approximate cost?

A. At 10 years old, worn steering components are always a possibility. There are two upper and two lower ball joints. Typically, the lower ball joints are the most likely to need replacement. General Motors sells the ball joints for $109 each and the labor is nearly four hours. Once the job is complete a wheel alignment is always a good idea. To save a little money you could go with a quality aftermarket part. Over the years I have had good luck with Moog parts.

Q. I bought a 2017 Hyundai Elantra last August. The car seems to lag back while driving. The right word may be that it tends to “hesitate “after braking and then giving it the gas. I had a Hyundai dealer look at it and they said that the car was fine after performing a diagnostic test. No codes showed up on the test. The car has a newer style transmission, and the dealer states the car drives as designed. Two weeks later I returned with the same problem, and they drove the car and tested it again. They performed an adaptive reset on the engine and transmission and took care of an update on the vehicle. They mentioned that the car had a software update. How would I know of any updates? I do check for recalls and have not seen any for this car. I still feel hesitation when driving.

A. Vehicle recalls are something you will or should be informed about. That is not the case with technical updates. Some cars will go 200,000 miles and never need a software update. In other models there can be several software updates to correct certain problems. The automatic transmission in your car is a dual-clutch type and has an “odd” shift feel. Although there have been no recalls on this transmission there is at least one class-action lawsuit. When checking AllData, one of the service information systems I use, there are at least 10 technical service bulletins for this transmission. Could one of these bulletins correct the problem? Possibly. Although it may be a little hard to do with a vehicle that is eight years old, if you can find the exact same car and do a road test comparison, you may be able to determine if it is a mechanical issue or an undesirable characteristic. The dealer could certainly be correct that the car is operating as designed.

John Paul is AAA Northeast’s Car Doctor. He has over 40 years of experience in the automotive business and is an ASE-certified master technician. E-mail your Car Doctor question to [email protected]. Listen to the Car Doctor podcast at johnfpaul.podbean.com.